17 May 2013
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Ireland, Travel
Tags: Cobh, County Cork, ireland, Kinsale, Lemon Leaf Cafe, Mallow, Timoleague, travel

We were sitting in the Lemon Leaf Cafe in Kinsale, Ireland when my husband told my daughter this little bit of wisdom.
{paraphrasing…}
“They say you get enjoyment from a trip three times. First the anticipation of the journey while you plan. Then the enjoyment of the trip while you are traveling. And last, when you are home and remember it.”
And so, we are home from Ireland and are inhabiting phase three: remembering.
The sun shone on us, despite forecasts that daily suggested otherwise.
The ocean sparkled. The hills spread out in folds of velvety green.

The tea was plentiful. The seafood straight off the boat. The pint glasses frothed with Guinness, Smithwicks or Murphy’s.
We took to the narrow paths and roads to walk beaches with hurley players and horse riders. Or all to ourselves.
We picked up seaglass among round ocean-washed pebbles and chatted with women walking their dogs on a headland overlooking Kinsale Harbor. We petted cats on steps in Cobh and wandered the graves and high crosses in Timoleague. At Mallow we watched steeplechase horse races to our daughter’s delight. (And ours.)
County Cork was our home and major exploring ground this time, and we rented a cozy apartment on a hillside outside of town.
I hope to find myself in Cork again.

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17 Apr 2013
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Farm Life, Ireland, Travel, Vermont
Tags: Boston attacks, farm life, heartbreak, ireland, Lambs, sadness, travel

I’ve been traveling for work over the last two weeks, and am reeling from the sad news in Boston. Boston is a three hour drive from here and I’ve been there twice in the last two weeks to fly out of Logan airport. Boston is in our New England neighborhood. We return there tomorrow to fly to Ireland.
Then we woke this morning to find our beloved lamb, Ivan, was attacked and killed in the night. We called Ivan our sheep dog. He was so dog-like in his friendliness and devotion to us. I still have that ache in the pit of my stomach from the sight of him, and it builds on the ache I feel since the attacks in Boston.
And so, I say farewell for the next ten days as we prepare for this long anticipated trip. I leave our hill with a heavy heart and the hope to return uplifted after days of walking the windy hills along the sea in County Cork. Strong tea, thick brown bread and pints of stout usually give me comfort.
I wish you all some comfort in these days when we realize the fragility of our world, but recognize the great amount of kindness and goodwill that live within it too.
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17 Mar 2013
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Ireland, Natural world, Spring, Travel
Tags: Clifden, Connemara, County Galway, ireland, Roundstone, Ryan's Bar, St Joseph's B&B, St Patrick's Day, travel
Another St. Patrick’s Day is upon us, with chill winter in the air, and hearty Irish fare cooking in the kitchen. A perfect day for that, though I wish our days would be ripening toward spring flowers instead of brewing up a big winter storm for tomorrow.
Alas.
I’ve been looking at photo albums from April 0f 2006 when we first took our daughter to Ireland. She was four, and looked upon everything with the wide eyes and questions I associate with that year. We saw places that we’d loved and visited through her naive and tender gaze. And we loved them anew. She loved them along with us.
On this trip we returned to Roundstone, a small village on the western edge of Co. Galway, in a wild region called Connemara. In pockets of Connemara you can still hear the Irish language spoken, and there are roads that cross the bog where you won’t meet another car or person. Just sheep, sprayed with a color to mark their flock, and crows and the occasional seagull.
Back to Roundstone. I took R. there for our 5th anniversary (1995) and we stayed in a little B&B called St. Joseph’s on the main street. As we wandered from pub to pub that night we were followed by an elderly trio of two men and a woman. At the first pub they asked to join us at our table since there were no other vacant seats.

They mistook us for local kids, wondering if we were the children of anyone they knew. They were native to Roundstone, but had emigrated to England years before (as have so many from Ireland over the centuries). They’d returned for a wedding in the town. We all chatted amicably while sipping our pints, and since we had arrived first we also left before they did, wishing them a good night.
We moved on in the hopes of finding some live music. Further down the street we found some music in a smaller, more rustic pub. A few men were singing so we settled in to listen for a little. Who should walk through the door, but our three friends. They joined us again and we laughed at the coincidence.
Our last destination of the night was Ryan’s, on the harbor side of the street. Here two men were playing guitars and singing. Not the fiddle and accordion tunes I’d hoped to hear all night, but the quality was good, so we decided to stay. The place filled up and we barely found two spots at the bar. The crowd around us joined in on the singing and near eleven p.m. a rousing rendition of Danny Boy left us breathless as we raised our glasses and sang at the top of our lungs with the crowd. And who was beside us, but our three new friends. It was—we decided—a perfect travel moment.
Back at our B&B we settled in and were awakened an hour later by some noise in the downstairs hallway. “I’m sorry Christina,” we heard a man saying, and the soothing response of the innkeeper as she took in the newcomers and gave them a room.
Imagine our surprise at breakfast to see that the latecomers were our friends from our pub crawl! It was as natural as anything to sit and eat our generous fry up together.
This was the story we told our daughter L. as we walked the pier in Roundstone and pointed out Ryan’s Bar and our former window at St. Joseph’s B&B. Our daughter’s name is an Irish surname. We picked up some Roundstone brochures and discovered that Christina—whose name we’d mentioned in this story dozens of times over the years—has our daughter’s name as her surname. Really? Did we somehow intuit it when naming our child? Down the road in Clifden, we discovered a Bar, a woolen shop and a butcher with the same name on the main street. We had no recollection of this! Of course, our daughter settled in and felt right at home.


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08 Mar 2013
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Garden, Ireland, Spring, Travel, winter
Tags: Anticipation, garden, ireland, Irish Daffodils, narcissus, Paperwhites, travel, Winter planting

Yesterday I discovered a paper bag with four paperwhite bulbs—forgotten and sprouting exuberantly. I tucked them in among the spent paperwhite bulbs I planted in December.
All our outdoor bulbs remain under a thick blanket of snow. The Irish daffodils are appearing in our markets and were irresistible.Their scent fills the house and nips at the tails of the woodsmoke. They increase my anticipation for a trip to Ireland only six weeks away. Travel and spring. Both worth waiting for, I think.
I’m happy to keep the perpetual flow of green indoors until our world shifts to spring. 
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10 Dec 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Creativity, Design, handmade, Travel, Weaving
Tags: design, Fog Linen, handmade, JaneGee, Japanese design, Linen apron, Lithuanian linen, Portsmouth New Hampshire, seaside town, skin products, textiles, travel

The scene is Portsmouth, New Hampshire—just a stone’s throw from Maine. Seaside village. Cobbled streets. And the place where I found a gorgeous slate gray apron by Fog Linen in a sweet little shop called JaneGee.
I say slate gray, but I also mean rich, warm, earthy gray with a touch of mushroom. Stone gray. The gray of the sky at dusk on a rainy night. Irresistible gray.
I say apron, but this garment suggests something out of Jane Austen’s England. Or 19th century rural France.
Jane (I’m back to JaneGee)—who hails from Australia—and Emma—who is English—provided a warm welcome to our little entourage of four friends. We stumbled in from the rainy night to their warmth and kindness. The shop was white and light, filled with aged wood boxes, natural linen and hewn wood. It felt Scandinavian and English—both. We were all smitten by Emma and Jane.
I didn’t mean to leave there with an apron—but Emma was wearing one and it just called my name. The two women extolled the virtues of Fog Linen, the Japanese company who sources the finest Lithuanian linen for their line of beautiful clothes and items for the home. They extolled the virtues of the natural skin products Jane makes by hand. They were both artists and we talked about the satisfaction of making things by hand.
It was the last stop on a long and wonderful day with my friends.
And I left with the last gray Fog apron they had in stock.
Find Fog Linen near you.
JaneGee
10 Ladd Street
Portsmouth, New Hampshire
1.603.431.0335
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18 Nov 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in color, Creativity, Design, handmade, Paris, Photography, Sewing, Travel
Tags: creativity, design, Exploring, fabric, fabric mushrooms, paris, Paris Shop, Petit Pan Paris, Porte de Vanves flea market, sewing, sewing ideas, textiles, travel, Walking

Early September, my last day in Paris. I was tired and pledged not to overdo it. Take photographs. Write notes. Draw sketches.
But Paris has a habit of luring me up streets and around corners.
In the end I walked about 1o miles.
The weather was good—the morning rain turning to sunshine, warm, no wind.
So walk I did.
First I wandered all over the Marais—one of my favorite areas in Paris, with its narrow streets, beautiful squares, and eclectic shops. Then I took the Metro north to the top of Montmartre. I had been here in April in dismal weather and wanted to explore it more. The area around Sacré Coeur was overrun so I started down the steps from the hilltop.
I missed a turn for a Metro stop, and since Montmartre is on a steep hillside, I chose to keep walking downhill instead of climbing hundreds of steps.
If I hadn’t made that mistake I wouldn’t have stumbled upon Petit Pan, a tiny shop of enchantments. A mobile of handsewn dotted mushrooms (I love mushrooms!) in the window drew me in to a narrow shop lined with bolts of ditzy print fabrics, patterned paper boxes and journals, silk butterflies hanging down from the ceiling. Further in there were inventive children’s clothes and bedding. And that’s what I can remember. There was so much more.
The unusual color combinations and pattern mixes the designers used raised my blood pressure. My head was buzzing with ideas. I bought a few small things with my dwindling cache of euros, and bid farewell to the friendly women at the counter.
A short distance away I settled into a bench in the square near the Abbesses Metro. A jazz guitarist played a familiar tune. The late summer sun slanted through the tree tops and glimmered on the carousel nearby. Page after page in my little notebook filled with sewing ideas, art sketches and things to tell friends. All percolating from my visit to that little shop.
Petit Pan
9 Rue Yvonne le Tac
Paris
There are several more locations in Paris. Perhaps you will stumble on one my design or by chance!
The photos above include items from Petit Pan, with a few from other places.
They are clockwise from top:
1. Haute Nouveauté vintage fabric sample, Porte de Vanves flea market
2. Patterned bias tape, Petit Pan
3. Vintage 35 ribbon, Porte de Vanves flea market
4. Soft aqua pink floral fabric, Liberty of London
5. Three rolls of patterned fabric, Petit Pan
6. Vintage button card, Porte de Vanves flea market
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07 Oct 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Design, England, Housewares, London, Travel
Tags: "Columbia Road Flower Market", Cake Hole Cafe, Columbia Road, East London, F. Fraser Darling, London, Northern Line Tube, travel, Vintage Heaven, Wild Life of Britain

Several weeks ago I arrived in London after the red eye from Boston. It was a Sunday morning, but noontime by the time I’d settled in my hotel. The bed was calling me, but not as strongly as the Sunday-only markets of London. I set out for Columbia Road and its famous Sunday flower market and quirky vintage, art, and design shops—many with limited open hours on any other day of the week.
I have a lilt in my step. I am in London, and I love the place. My parents brought me here as a child and I keep returning—like a moth to flame. {Only not singed by the light, but illuminated.} London has sights to break ones’ heart, but also beauty and ingenuity to fuel hours, weeks, months, years of creative endeavors. For me, at least.
So onto the Tube train—smelling familiar like shoe leather, hint of tobacco, mesh of cooking spice, body odors and damp newspaper. On the familiar Northern Line—the one I lived closest to when I spent a college term in London—I head north to Old Street Station. From here a short walk brings me to one end of Columbia Road, chock full of wonders.
First, I need sustenance. It occurs to me that I last ate something on the airplane hours—seeming lifetimes—ago.
Vintage Heaven and Cake Hole {the cafe through and behind} lure me in. Vintage Heaven is true to its name—a beautifully curated shop of color-grouped cups, plates and teapots. Books, textiles, and various ephemera linger among the kitchen goods, paired for color and theme very cleverly. I would take most of the shop’s contents home with me, but this is day one of an eleven day trip, and I can’t coddle breakables from here to Paris and home.
A small apple green book called Wild Life of Britain, with a jaunty illustrated squirrel on the cover, is the backdrop for a tableaux of jade cups and saucers. Its binding is slightly damaged, and as I buy it the shop’s owner and I discuss the beauty of the book. She says how some would pass over it for the marks on the top of the spine. It does look like a mouse has snacked on it. But I prefer to imagine a squirrel is the one who took a bite, and say so aloud. She and I laugh at this idea and page through admiring the illustrations and sampling bits of the writing by author F. Fraser Darling (whose name is yet another reason why I choose to buy this book).
If you are ever in East London on a Sunday go to Vintage Heaven and chat with the owner. She is marvelous and so is her shop.

Cake Hole is just the place to sit with my new book and eat my first meal in London (and drink my first cup of quality English tea). The cafe is intimate and charming, with some of the qualities of Vintage Heaven spilling over into its decor. Throughout the shop and cafe mismatched Scrabble letters are used to label things—tea, scones, Victoria sponge cake.
I share my table with two different couples—both friendly and carting their flower purchases and other goodies from their amble on Columbia Road. My smoked salmon sandwich and scone with jam and clotted cream are served upon 70s era china. The tea takes a swing at my mild jetlag headache and the food is a good start to establishing me in Greenwich Mean Time, plus one.
More Columbia Road discoveries coming soon. Stay tuned.

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12 Sep 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Natural world, Paris, Seasons, Summer, Travel
Tags: Ile de la Cite, Ile St-Louis, morning in paris, St Regis Cafe Paris, Street cleaners, street sweepers, Sunday morning Paris, travel

7:30 on a Sunday morning in Paris is mostly quiet. The streets are deserted, but littered with debris left by the revelers of Saturday night.
In empty cobbled passageways the flutter of pigeons’ wings passing between the roofs is the only sound to join the clicking of my own heels.
At the river, the beeps of equipment shatter the quiet—the street sweepers are swooshing along the curbs. Others are on foot with brooms and hoses, sweeping and washing. The stone embankments of the Ile St-Louis and Ile de la Cité are layered with bottles and paper. But help is at hand and in another 30 minutes there will be no trace of debris.

This time of day the sun is just creeping up the buildings and what will later look stark and white, is golden and pink. I am thrilled to feel chilly after the hot afternoons in the city which leave me sweaty and tired.
Café waiters are righting the upside down chairs from their towering stacks and arranging the tables. I see them as I cross the bridge, and now I can choose the place for a morning croissant and coffee.
Despite an elderly gentleman coughing phlegmatically, I can’t resist the charms of the Café St. Regis and find a table just inside the open windows, further along. The croissant my waitress serves me is the most delicious I’ve had this trip, and even rivals memory of other very, very good croissants. Half of its outer flakes land in my lap. The inner layers are buttery without making my tongue feel fuzzy and they peel back over and over, moist and flavorful—an endless coil unwinding as into the center of a seaside shell.

I should be taking pictures, and this is what I wanted to do this morning. But I have arrived here to discover that the battery for my camera is still charging five floors up in my hotel several blocks away. And the sweet light is so fleeting. By the time I return for it and find myself back at the St Regis, the buildings will be blinding in the sun and the crowds planning to climb the tower of Notre Dame will be crossing the bridges. I have my iPhone, and its camera will have to do this morning.
And so, I accept my blunder, sit back and sip my coffee slowly. Tomorrow will bring another morning, and I hope it will be as calm and serene as this one.

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01 Sep 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Autumn, Chickens, England, Family, Farm Life, Garden, London, Paris, Travel, Vermont
Tags: Anniversary, Chores, Duality, hops, hydrangea, London, Marriage, Packing, signs of autumn, travel, woodbine

This morning I woke to wish R a happy 22nd anniversary.
We celebrated last night, since today would take on the non-reality that days do when you prepare to travel.
We shared a nice breakfast together and then he took off on a long rugged bike ride. L got up and played with her many toy horses, and I—well—I cleaned out the chicken house.
You may think I spend all my time mucking barns after my lamb post last week. I probably should spend more time mucking (I thought to myself as I scooped the wheelbarrow full from our little hen house). The hens were gathered around watching me. I had clucking commentators.
All around I noted the tangle of my gardens, growing wildly out of my control. The hydrangeas are tinging pink, and the woodbine is getting its first kisses of red at the edges. The hop blooms are shaking their beer-fragrant pollen around the patio. When I return the steps toward autumn will be more pronounced.
A few hours and several other unsavory chores later, I got to packing in earnest: checking my many lists, moving piles around. Eying my luggage dubiously and wondering how I’d make it all fit.
Such is my life at times. One moment in the wellies, and the next picking out clothes and shoes that are suitable for urban Europe. No complaints, just acknowledging the inconsistencies and surprises that life brings. And when you face a 22nd anniversary it’s nice to rewind the years and think of the things, places, events and people that brought you to this place where you look down and see your feet in mucky boots one day and kicky little black flats the next.
Just before the leaving the ache of love can be so strong and powerful. Our family lunch made me miss R and L, before I’d even left.
Then back to the packing—but now making the decisions of what was essential and what could be left behind.
Highway miles are flying by my window as the first leg of the trip begins from Vermont to Boston. Then on to Heathrow tonight and a much anticipated time in London. Later Paris.
Already anticipating the first cup of strong tea.
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05 Jun 2012
by Sue Schlabach 129twigandvine
in Family, Friendship, Garden
Tags: biennials, foxgloves, garden, home, ireland, love, nature, plants, seeds, travel, wedding

I’ve been on the road. And up to my eyeballs in work and life. It’s a fine savory stew, my life, with many ingredients I wouldn’t wish to remove. If only there were more hours in the day to do all the things I long to do.
This weekend we witnessed a beautiful and moving wedding. I took part in designing the dress for the bride who is now my sister-in-law. Seeing two people profess their love helps renew your own commitments, at least it does for me. So I look at my husband with fresh eyes, not wishing to allow familiarity to turn to boredom. Look for the surprises.
We came home to a bounty of foxgloves ready to burst their pods into pinks and whites. As a gardener I’ve learned to be a little heartless with some of the flowers that seed themselves voluntarily. But I’m a wimp with foxgloves because I love them so much. They remind me of the acres of pink spires of foxglove seen in County Down, Ireland, along the edge of a lake. And more in the woodlands of County Galway and Kerry.
It’s taken me 17 years to get them to seed themselves enough for me to be satisfied. They are biennial—meaning they grow as a green plant the first summer and bloom the next. I learned that if you allow them to spread their seed enough you’ll have them blooming each summer. Even so, I have a bigger yield every other year. And this is THE big yield year. Never mind that I need to step over them in the pathways. {They seem to be particularly fond of pathways.}
I will be cutting them for the table. And watching them from the windows. I will share them with friends. And I will think of lasting love through the years. How it also has its ebbs and flows of dormancy and blooms. Many many blooms.
Pictures of the wedding dress coming soon.
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