Three Times Good, Ireland Remembered

129twigandvine—co. cork ireland

We were sitting in the Lemon Leaf Cafe in Kinsale, Ireland when my husband told my daughter this little bit of wisdom.

{paraphrasing…}

“They say you get enjoyment from a trip three times. First the anticipation of the journey while you plan. Then the enjoyment of the trip while you are traveling. And last, when you are home and remember it.”

And so, we are home from Ireland and are inhabiting phase three: remembering.

The sun shone on us, despite forecasts that daily suggested otherwise.

The ocean sparkled. The hills spread out in folds of velvety green.

129twigandvine—co. cork ireland

The tea was plentiful. The seafood straight off the boat. The pint glasses frothed with Guinness, Smithwicks or Murphy’s.

We took to the narrow paths and roads to walk beaches with hurley players and horse riders. Or all to ourselves.

We picked up seaglass among round ocean-washed pebbles and chatted with women walking their dogs on a headland overlooking Kinsale Harbor. We petted cats on steps in Cobh and wandered the graves and high crosses in Timoleague. At Mallow we watched steeplechase horse races to our daughter’s delight. (And ours.)

County Cork was our home and major exploring ground this time, and we rented a cozy apartment on a hillside outside of town.

I hope to find myself in Cork again.

129twigandvine—co. cork ireland

Apple Blossoms, Heavy Dew

129twigandvine — apple blossoms, vermont morningGreetings after a long respite. Happy Mother’s Day and honor to all of our foremothers.

Heavy dew this week makes for magic mornings. The apple blossoms are just starting to open on the north side by the henhouse. Violets and dandelions sprinkle the lawns, along with fallen branches from winter winds and snow—now just a memory.

Ireland is behind me, bringing a smile to my lips as I think of the stories yet to share. This week. I promise.129twigandvine_dew129twigandvine_violet_dew

Heartbreak on the Hill

129twigandvine—lamb, Ivan

I’ve been traveling for work over the last two weeks, and am reeling from the sad news in Boston. Boston is a three hour drive from here and I’ve been there twice in the last two weeks to fly out of Logan airport. Boston is in our New England neighborhood. We return there tomorrow to fly to Ireland.

Then we woke this morning to find our beloved lamb, Ivan, was attacked and killed in the night. We called Ivan our sheep dog. He was so dog-like in his friendliness and devotion to us. I still have that ache in the pit of my stomach from the sight of him, and it builds on the ache I feel since the attacks in Boston.

And so, I say farewell for the next ten days as we prepare for this long anticipated trip. I leave our hill with a heavy heart and the hope to return uplifted after days of walking the windy hills along the sea in County Cork. Strong tea, thick brown bread and pints of stout usually give me comfort.

I wish you all some comfort in these days when we realize the fragility of our world, but recognize the great amount of kindness and goodwill that live within it too.

 

An Irish Pub Crawl, New Friends, and a Rediscovered Name

www.129twigandvine—Roundstone Pier, Co. GalwayAnother St. Patrick’s Day is upon us, with chill winter in the air, and hearty Irish fare cooking in the kitchen. A perfect day for that, though I wish our days would be ripening toward spring flowers instead of brewing up a big winter storm for tomorrow.

Alas.

I’ve been looking at photo albums from April 0f 2006 when we first took our daughter to Ireland. She was four, and looked upon everything with the wide eyes and questions I associate with that year. We saw places that we’d loved and visited through her naive and tender gaze. And we loved them anew. She loved them along with us.

On this trip we returned to Roundstone, a small village on the western edge of Co. Galway, in a wild region called Connemara. In pockets of Connemara you can still hear the Irish language spoken, and there are roads that cross the bog where you won’t meet another car or person. Just sheep, sprayed with a color to mark their flock, and crows and the occasional seagull.

Back to Roundstone. I took R. there for our 5th anniversary (1995) and we stayed in a little B&B called St. Joseph’s on the main street. As we wandered from pub to pub that night we were followed by an elderly trio of two men and a woman. At the first pub they asked to join us at our table since there were no other vacant seats.

www.129twigandvine.com – Roundstone, County Galway, Ireland

They mistook us for local kids, wondering if we were the children of anyone they knew. They were native to Roundstone, but had emigrated to England years before (as have so many from Ireland over the centuries). They’d returned for a wedding in the town. We all chatted amicably while sipping our pints, and since we had arrived first we also left before they did, wishing them a good night.

We moved on in the hopes of finding some live music. Further down the street we found some music in a smaller, more rustic pub. A few men were singing so we settled in to listen for a little. Who should walk through the door, but our three friends. They joined us again and we laughed at the coincidence.

Our last destination of the night was Ryan’s, on the harbor side of the street. Here two men were playing guitars and singing. Not the fiddle and accordion tunes I’d hoped to hear all night, but the quality was good, so we decided to stay. The place filled up and we barely found two spots at the bar. The crowd around us joined in on the singing and near eleven p.m. a rousing rendition of Danny Boy left us breathless as we raised our glasses and sang at the top of our lungs with the crowd. And who was beside us, but our three new friends. It was—we decided—a perfect travel moment.

Back at our B&B we settled in and were awakened an hour later by some noise in the downstairs hallway. “I’m sorry Christina,” we heard a man saying, and the soothing response of the innkeeper as she took in the newcomers and gave them a room.

Imagine our surprise at breakfast to see that the latecomers were our friends from our pub crawl! It was as natural as anything to sit and eat our generous fry up together.

This was the story we told our daughter L. as we walked the pier in Roundstone and pointed out Ryan’s Bar and our former window at St. Joseph’s B&B. Our daughter’s name is an Irish surname. We picked up some Roundstone brochures and discovered that Christina—whose name we’d mentioned in this story dozens of times over the years—has our daughter’s name as her surname. Really? Did we somehow intuit it when naming our child? Down the road in Clifden, we discovered a Bar, a woolen shop and a butcher with the same name on the main street. We had no recollection of this! Of course, our daughter settled in and felt right at home.

www.129twigandvine.com – Irish horse

www.129twigandvine.com – Connemara, Co Galway Ireland

Sprouting, Anticipating

129twigandvine_bulbs

Yesterday I discovered a paper bag with four paperwhite bulbs—forgotten and sprouting exuberantly. I tucked them in among the spent paperwhite bulbs I planted in December.

All our outdoor bulbs remain under a thick blanket of snow. The Irish daffodils are appearing in our markets and were irresistible.Their scent fills the house and nips at the tails of the woodsmoke. They increase my anticipation for a trip to Ireland only six weeks away. Travel and spring. Both worth waiting for, I think.

I’m happy to keep the perpetual flow of green indoors until our world shifts to spring. 129twigandvine_daffodils

 

Irish Weather on the Wethers

Meet Azalea.

She joined our little flock yesterday which brings us back to four sheep after the loss of Oscar in August. She is a Navajo Churro breed. Our others are Dorset crosses.

Today got me thinking of our first serious discussion about raising lambs. We were renting a little stone house in Ballydavid on the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland. Our hosts were a wonderful family who lived up the road and invited us into their lives for that time.

We loved the two-worlds-colliding feel when Elaine welcomed us and then answered her cell phone and spoke in Gaelic. We learned that she came from 10 miles away and grew up speaking only English. It was when she moved closer to Dingle town to be married that she learned the language (mostly from elderly men in the pub!). She and her husband had three school-aged boys, a flock of sheep, and a comfortable house where they invited us to share both strong tea and glasses of wine on several occasions at their kitchen table.

My daughter was 6 years old and thrilled to hold and bottle feed baby lambs. My husband was just as happy to visit the lambs and got talking about the prospect of raising sheep in the coming year. And so it became so. Our property became more than a view, but also a living, breathing landscape with many lessons of both heartache and joy in store.

A little over a month later we got our first two lambs, and this has been our fifth summer to raise sheep. This year we are going to keep two lambs through the winter and onward as grazers. Ivan—and now Azalea—will be the two we know for longevity. You can guess the fate of the other two.

But back to Ireland.

With the arrival or Azalea we also have the misty moisty weather that I associate affectionately with many trips to Ireland. With our own flock of wethers in the field, I dipped back into pictures from the past trips and found L and R with the neighbor lambs. My daughter’s face is so much rounder and I see how much she’s grown and slimmed out into features that hint at the teenager, the young adult, and the woman she will become. One who cares about animals, loves Irish music, and has the gypsy spirit to travel like her parents.

A few years ago I learned a fiddle tune called Ca’ the Wethers to the Hill. I believe it’s of Scottish origin, and the version I know comes by way of Cape Breton Island. I think I’ll go upstairs and try to play it tonight to conjure up the feel of sea spray and salty air, hillsides dotted with white grazers, islands in the distance.

Banner Year for Foxgloves

I’ve been on the road. And up to my eyeballs in work and life. It’s a fine savory stew, my life, with many ingredients I wouldn’t wish to remove. If only there were more hours in the day to do all the things I long to do.

This weekend we witnessed a beautiful and moving wedding. I took part in designing the dress for the bride who is now my sister-in-law. Seeing two people profess their love helps renew your own commitments, at least it does for me. So I look at my husband with fresh eyes, not wishing to allow familiarity to turn to boredom. Look for the surprises.

We came home to a bounty of foxgloves ready to burst their pods into pinks and whites. As a gardener I’ve learned to be a little heartless with some of the flowers that seed themselves voluntarily. But I’m a wimp with foxgloves because I love them so much. They remind me of the acres of pink spires of foxglove seen in County Down, Ireland, along the edge of a lake. And more in the woodlands of County Galway and Kerry.

It’s taken me 17 years to get them to seed themselves enough for me to be satisfied. They are biennial—meaning they grow as a green plant the first summer and bloom the next. I learned that if you allow them to spread their seed enough you’ll have them blooming each summer. Even so, I have a bigger yield every other year. And this is THE big yield year. Never mind that I need to step over them in the pathways. {They seem to be particularly fond of pathways.}

I will be cutting them for the table. And watching them from the windows. I will share them with friends. And I will think of lasting love through the years. How it also has its ebbs and flows of dormancy and blooms. Many many blooms.

Pictures of the wedding dress coming soon.

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